Novelty wool and mohair knop yarn



Aug. 13, 1940. E. BRY 2,211,643

NOVELTY WOOL AND MOHAIR KNOP YARN Filed Nov 24, 19:59

6 2 MOHAIR INVENTOR EDWIN BRY.

L ATTORNEYS Patented Aug. 1 3, 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE NOVELTY woor. AND MOHAIR'KNOP YARN EdwinEry, Elberon, N. J., .assignor to Edwin &

Louis Bry, Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application November 24, 1939, SerialNo. 305,760

4 Claims. (Cl. 57--144) My invention relates to the art of textiles and to a novelty yarn formed of separate threads or strands of mohair and wool, said noveltyyarn having alternate knops of wool and knops of mohair along its length. More particularly, my invention relates to a yarn comprising a thread or strand of mohair and a thread or strand of wool twisted together and about a core thread and having alternate knops of mohair and knops of wool of equal size along its length.

My invention further relates tothe gimp or ratine twist having an unusual crinkled effect between said knops of mohair and knops of wool, such gimp or ratine twist being formed by the shrinkage of the thread or strand of mohair against the thread or strand of wool.

My invention further relates to a novelty yarn formed by twisting a thread or strand of mohair and a thread or strand of wool about a core 'thread and then shrinking the resulting yarn, which shrinking causes the greater shrinking strand or thread of mohair to force the strand or thread of wool out into arcuate loops to give a crepe effect.

This is a continuation-in-part of my copending application U. S. Serial No. 282,775, filed July 4, 1939.

For the sake of brevity, I shall refer to the threads or strands of mohair and threads of strands of wool as threads of mohair or threads of wool, respectively, said threads consisting of a plurality of twisted fibres of wool or mohair respectively.

My invention further relates to a novelty fabric formed from the novelty yarn described above and particularly a fabric in which such novelty yarn comprises all or part of the woof or filler and/or all'or part ofthe warp. My yarn may comprise all or part of the fabric.

The desirability of providing textile yarns of attractive and distinctive appearance has long been recognized. One method of obtaining such novelty erfect is by the provision of knops on said yarn which consist of loops of thread bunched and twisted about specific areas of the core of the novelty yarn. Such knops are formed by twisting a thread of suitable yarn about a core thread which is alternatively progressed and stopped so that such over-twisted thread alternately bunches in the form of loops about such core thread and then progresses on and twists.

I have provided a novel textile yarn of distinctive appearance which comprises a 'core material which may be of cotton, and twisted about such core materiaLthreads of wool and threads of mohair. I form alternate knops of equalsize composed of threads of mohair and threads of wool in my yarn and further twist the threads of wool and threads of mohair in initially relatively close relation so that upon shrinking said yarn, the faster shrinking threads of mohair act to press out the threads of wool in the form of bunching or loose arcuate loops.

Further, in addition to the enhancing of the beauty of the yarn by the use of this particular combination of threads of mohair and threads of wool in a twist formation, I secure a yarn of definitely superior properties. The threads of mohair shrinking far and fast as they do, tend to compress themselves about the threads of wool; the wool being a fiufiier material absorbs the strain of the shrinking threads of mohair and further acts as a resilient base against which the threads of mohair may be compressed when the yarn is subject to strain in its actual use.

Alternatively, I may use mohair and wool of such relative count 50 that the mohair is bunched out into arcuate'loops by the wool.

My invention therefore lies in the combination of threads of mohair and threads of wool in a particular twist whereby alternate knops of mohair and wool are spaced by gimp or ratine formed by twisted threads of mohair and threads of wool. In that ratine because of the respective differential shrinkage between the threads of mohair and the threads of wool, the ratine has a peculiar crinkled effect formed by the forcing out by the threads of mohair of the threads of wool into arcuate fiufiy loops.

Alternatively, the ratine may have its crinkled effect produced by the forcing out of the mohair by the wool, which would be determined by the relation of the count of the mohair to the count of the wool.

It is therefore the object of my invention to provide a novel knop yarn of mohair and wool in which the knops formed are of equal size.

It is another object of my invention to provide a novel yarn comprising threads of wool and threads of mohair.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a novel yarn of twisted threads of wool and threads of mohair carrying alternate knops of wool and mohair at spaced intervals thereon.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a novel yarn of twisted threads of wool and. threads of mohair in which the wool is formed into arcuate loops which extend out from the yarn.

It is a further object of my invention to profit vide a novel yarn of twisted threads of wool and threads of mohair in which the mohair is formed into arcuate loops which extend out from the yarn.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a crinkled yarn formed of twisted threads of mohair and threads of wool in which because of the differential in shrinking properties between the threads of mohair and threads of wool, the wool is formed into arcuate fluffy loops.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a crinkled yarn formed of twisted threads of mohair and threads of wool in which because of the differential in shrinking properties between the threads of mohair and threads of wool, the mohair is formed into arcuate large loops.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a novelty yarn which comprises a core thread over which is twisted threads of mohair and threads of wool.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a novelty yarn which comprises a core thread over which is twisted threads of mohair and threads of wool, said novelty yarn having thereon alternate knops of mohair and knops of wool.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a novelty yarn which comprises a core thread over which is twisted threads of mohair and threads of wool, said novelty yarn having thereon alternate knops of mohair and knops of wool, said yarn being bound back with a binder thread.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a novelty yarn of relatively increased strength in which threads of wool and threads of mohair are twisted in such a way that upon shrinkage, the greater shrunk threads of mohair are tensioned against the more resilient and fiuffy threads of wool.

These and other objects and advantages of my invention will be apparent from the following description and the drawing.

In the drawing, Figure 1 represents a side elevation of the yarn of my invention.

Figure 2 represents an enlarged section of a portion of the yarn shown in Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a diagrammatic showing of the apparatus and methods by which the novelty yarn of my invention is formed.

Referring now more specifically to the drawing, in Figure 1, l is the core thread of my yarn which core may be of cotton or any suitable similar material. Twisted about this core thread i is a thread of wool 2 and a thread of mohair 3. The thread of wool is formed into a knop 4 and the thread of mohair is formed into the knop 5 spaced therefrom. The yarn is bound back with a binder thread 6.

Because I desire to obtain in my final product after the shrinking operation, knops of mohair and knops of wool that are equal in size, I initially provide suitable knops of mohair and knops of wool in the formation of the yarn, said knops being of such relative size that the different relative shrinkages of mohair and wool will cause the knops to be equal in size after shrinkage. The relative shrinkage is partially determined by the denier or count of the thread and this must be taken into consideration in predetermining the initial size of the knops. Thus I may form a knop of mohair that initially is larger in size than the knop of wool but which after shinkage has shrunk because of its shrinkage characteristics to a final size that is equivalent to the final shrunk size of the wool knop. The variant shrinkage characteristics of the mohair and wool in combination with the core thread produces the crepe appearances of my novel yarn.

Between these knops is the ratine or gimp which has a crinkled appearance of particular merit in which it will be noted the thicker thread of wool 2 is forced out into arcuate loops as shown by reason of the fact that the thread of mohair twisted therewith has shrunk relatively farther than the Wool and thus pulls the wool into the arcuate form shown. Inasmuch as the threads of wool have a fluffy appearance and the threads of mohair a shiny sleek appearance, the yarn of my invention has a particularly pleasing effect.

It will be noted that when the threads of mohair 3 are subjected to longitudinal tension they are compressed against the threads of wool 2 and inasmuch as the threads of wool 2 are a fluify and resilient material the threads of mohair are thus given an unusual resilience and resistance to rupture.

In Figure 3 which diagrammatically represents the machine for manufacturing the novelty yarn of my invention, I show a supply of core thread on the spool Ill which travels between the rollers H and I2. These rollers alternately move the core thread material 1 forward and then arrest its motion so that the knops can be formed. The core thread I travels about the guide roller l3 and then towards the bobbin M.

The wool is supplied from the spool l5 and travels between the rollers l6 and Il which deliver it about the core thread i. The faller bar 26 is located just above the point where the thread of wool 2 is twisted about the core thread I as set forth. The thread of mohair 3 is supplied from the spool 2i and passes between the rollers l6 and I! and passes beneath the faller bar 23 at which point it is twisted over the core thread i and the thread of wool 2.

When the core thread I is progressed steadily forward the wool and mohair are twisted about it in an even twist which forms the ratine or gimp of the novelty yarn of my invention. When by means of the rollers II and I2 the forward movement of the core thread i is stopped, the wool and mohair are still being twisted about the core thread and form knops 4 and 5 of wool and mohair respectively.

The novelty yarn so formed of mohair and wool may then be bound down with a suitable binder thread according to methods which are well known in this art. One or more binders may be employed if desired.

The faller bars 20 and 23 prevent the threads of wool and the threads of mohair from rising upon the core thread and assist in forming the bunched knops.

The yarn thus formed passes through a guide 24 and thence through a lifter plate 25 on to the bobbin E4. The twisting is effected by means of the pulley 26 driven by the belt 2'! shown which rotates the bobbin M.

The novelty yarn thus formed is bound in a separate operation, in which the binding thread 6 is bound back over the yarn. If desired, the novelty yarn may also be bound back with still another binder thread. The binder threads secure the components of the novelty yarn against displacement. The binding operation by means of which my novelty yarn is bound down is not shown in the drawing since it is a well known operation in the art.

The novelty knop yarn formed as above set forth is then woven into a fabric. I may employ this novelty knop yarn as the weft or filler of a fabric or I may employ it as the warp or both as warp and weft. The novelty yarn may comprise all or part of, the fabric. By combining this novel yarn with other yarns I may obtain pleasing aesthetic effects in fabrics.

After the fabric is formed it is washed in an emulsion of soap, soda ash, and warm water. This washing effects a shrinkage in both the wool and mohair. The cotton threads which constitute the core and binder remain substantially unchanged. The threads of mohair shrink relatively substantially faster and farther than the threads of wool and thus pull the threads of wool in the ratine or gimp into the arcuate loops and give the desirable crinkled or crepe effect. The mohair knops shrink into the shiny irregular form While the wool knops shrink and become bunchy and flufiy.

I wish to emphasize the new and unexpected effects which result from the combination of threads of mohair and threads of, wool in the form of overtw'ist yarn over and above the pleasing aesthetic results which are so desirable in the art. These new and unexpected results are:

(l) The differential in shrinking properties between the threads of mohair and the threads of wool results in the threads of mohair forcing the threads of wool into the form of arcuate loops whereby a desirable crepe effect is obtained and at the same time whereby the threads of mohair themselves are given a slight loop efiect.

When the. reverse relative count of mohair and wool is employed, then the difierential in shrinking properties between the threads of mohair and the threads of wool results in the threads of wool forcing the threads of mohair into the form of arcuateloops whereby a desirable crepe eifect is obtained and at the same time whereby the threads of wool themselves are given a slight loop effect, and i (2) The threads of mohair lying in tensional contact with the resilient threads of wool are given increased longitudinal strength.

The threads of wool which I may employ may be White or colored by a skein dye process, or may be formed by a mixture process, or my wool may constitute a mixture containing colored and/or white nubs or knickers.

The core or binder material may be of cotton,

worsted, rayon, silk, wool, or mohair or any other suitable material. Although the core and binder may be varied if desired, it is the particular combination of threads of wool and threads of mohair in the twisted formation as shown that produces the novelty yarn of my invention.

Although I have particularly pointed out the method by means of which I form a novelty yarn of threads of mohair and threads of wool having alternate knops of mohair and knops of. wool, it is to be understood that I can arrange the knops in other sequences if desired. The provision of spaced knops in my novelty yarn is of utility inasmuch as it provides definite areas of gimp or ratine in which the diiferential shrinkage prop erties of the threads of mohair and threads of.

wool respectively act to give the crepe effect described.

The apparatus and method whereby I form my novel twist yarn of threads of mohair and threads of wool have been given by way of example only. I intend to define my invention and to be limited only by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A novelty knop yarn of. mohair and wool which comprises a core thread, a thread of mohair and a thread of wool twisted over said core thread and knops of mohair and knops' of wool of equal size formed in said novelty yarn.

2. A novelty knop yarn of mohair and wool which comprises a core thread, a thread of, mohair and a thread of wool twisted over said core thread, and alternate lumps of mohair and knops of wool of equal size formed in said novelty yarn.

3. A novelty knop yarn of mohair and wool which comprises a core thread, a thread of mo- 7 EDWIN BRY. 

